By Edu Valor / Author - Spanish Chef
This Spanish potato salad recipe is the king of summer in Spain. Few salads are as popular as ensaladilla Rusa (Russian salad)!
It's simply delicious cold, straight from the refrigerator. That's how we like it! With a perfect blend of tuna-mayo flavor and a touch of acidity.
You might be wondering why it's called Russian (or Olivier salad). Is it Spanish? Given its extreme popularity in the country, I'd love to say yes, but it's not an original Spanish recipe!
Magazines and papers often mention it as a creation from the Slavic countries.
Let me clear up the confusion!
Lucien Olivier (1838-1883), a Belgian chef of French descent, created a delicious salad in Moscow. Its high demand made him famous in the Russian capital and beyond.
He opened a fine dining restaurant called "Hermitage." Originally, the salad was called "game mayonnaise," later becoming known as salad Olivier.
Lucien Olivier never revealed the full recipe, but customers noted it contained crab, partridge, veal tongue, lettuce, pickles, truffles, boiled potatoes, and olives.
But Chef Olivier merely popularized his version of potato salads that already existed in Western Europe.
Europe has a long tradition of salad making. Why do I mention this?
When Lucien Olivier was just seven years old (in 1845), long before setting foot in Moscow, the recipe book "The Modern Cook" by Charles Francatelli was released. This book included a recipe called "Russian salad."
Francatelli wasn't just any chef—he was Queen Victoria's head chef. His version had red mayo, lobster, shrimp, crab, tuna, olives, and capers. Now that's what I call a fancy salad!
Interestingly, it wasn't meant to be a main salad. Rather, it was a mix to accompany his Italian vegetable salad recipe, which included asparagus, peas, beans, and artichokes. All fine and delicious!
Francatelli, in turn, adapted a recipe from his mentor in France, the great Antonin Carême. His work "Le Pâtissier Royal Parisien" from 1815 included the "salad à la Parisienne."
This version had potatoes, peas, carrots, asparagus, mushrooms, turnips, beets, and beans mixed with mayonnaise. A little different, but not unfamiliar.
Many creations and adaptations went through the hands of different chefs in Western Europe. Spain had its own.
So why is it called "ensaladilla Rusa"? It's not entirely clear, but in the well-known book "La Cuisine Classique" by Urbain Dubois from 1856, there's a recipe for "Salade Russe."
It's not like it had ingredients that were typically Russian. In those times, recipe names were often random.
Spanish chefs were likely inspired by this work, as the salad was part of a banquet menu in Valladolid in 1858. The snippet below the recipe shows part of that listing (courtesy of the National Library).
Preparation: 45-50 minutes
Cooking: potatoes 15-20 minutes (depends on size), eggs 12 minutes
*Measurements in metric and USA Imperial system. For British/Canadian measurements please use the metric conversion calculator.
Add the mayonaisse when the potatoes and eggs are still warm. It'll emulsify the flavors better and increases the creaminess.
Optional: minced chives or parsley for garnish
TIPS:
The ever-popular Spanish potato salad recipe was already enjoyed in Spain, even before Olivier opened the Hermitage in Moscou.
However, Spain's versions had to endure a change of ingredients as a result of the civil war.
From then on we see a more recognizable and affordable recipe. Similar to the ensaladilla we know today.
Potatoes, carrots, peas, boiled eggs, and tuna were and are the main ingredients. Unlike the Sevillian, classic potato salad. An even more reduced version!